Brioni: Riders’ Quadrille and Viennese Chic

What Men Wear in Winter 2015

This year, Vienna’s cultural heritage not only enters the limelight at Valentino but also at the traditional Italian tailor Brioni: in his autumn collection, Creative Director Brendan Mullane dares to build a bridge between the traditional outfits of the Spanish Riding School and the Modernists at the Wiener Werkstätte. Cuts, materials and accessories like key chains and gloves are reminiscent of riding equipment.

Duffle coats, jackets and blousons are inspired by the Lipizzaner horses’ blankets. On one or two pullovers you might even be able to make out the Renaissance arch of Vienna’s Stallburg stables. Mullane was just as consistent in the staging of the show: his models in the arena were choreographed as if part of the riders’ quadrille.