Winter is guaranteed to return at the end of the year, because the menswear collections have already been prepared. We have identified the 5 fundamental menswear trends at Milan Fashion Week for autumn/winter 2017:
- Hipsters are out, nature-loving mountaineers are in.
- Beards are here to stay.
- Following the trend for organic and sustainable food, warm and comfy fashion made from soft natural materials is on the rise.
- Corduroy, tweed and woolly knits are combined with high-end, high-tech fibres.
- Don’t restrict your love of nature to your holiday in the mountains: there’s a place for it when you’re staying in the city, too.
Here are the trends you’ll find at the Goldenes Quartier next winter:
Kean Etro has bravely ventured to lofty heights with projections of mountain panoramas in psychedelic colours – reminiscent of the video installations by Swiss artist Pipilotti Rist. Mountains, adventure, expeditions to far-off worlds: Etro has always been keen on such things. This time he was inspired by Reinhold Messner. His motto: the sky is the limit. Earthy tones, mountain panorama prints, long hair, beards, polar sunglasses, skis and snowboards pimped with paisley patterns, thick-soled climbing boots worn with bronze-coloured, floral-patterned velvet suits, bomber jackets and kilts all imply that life is one long expedition: if you try the impossible, you will succeed.
Giorgio Armani decided to leave the paint pots to the other labels. In fact, he has abandoned colour entirely, experimenting instead with every imaginable shade between black and grey. And the occasional tinge of beige or dark green, when a soft velvet coat billows in the light and reflects a hint of colour. Fake fur trimmings on suits, rich textures on textiles, baggy trousers, velvet and shorn pelts, this autumn Armani’s men are begging to be touched: you want to feel these smooth, flowing materials between your fingers, snuggle up to them. An autumn made for cuddling: for the grand finale, Armani had his men accompanied by women – matching perfectly, of course.
In the Milan showroom Kiton presented its latest jackets: woven from the finest pure vicuña wool from South America’s Andes. The wool of this cloven-hoofed relative of the camel is considered the rarest and warmest in the world. Worn with elegant active wear, which combines high-tech materials with fur, and a denim jacket lined with beaver pelts.
We are turning away from the superlative and towards detail, towards people, towards simplicity, proclaimed Miuccia Prada prior to the show. In other words: keep it simple! Button-down shirts, V-necked jumpers, corduroy trousers, fur-lined boots. This return to the seventies alternates between the conventionally suburban and cries of protest. Between small Middle England town and San Franciscan hippy glamour. Even the designer herself may no longer be able to state exactly where all the inspiration for her designs came from. But this time, the most important thing for her is to withdraw: back to the days when it wasn’t possible to contact everyone at every hour of the day or night and when not everyone was susceptible to the slightest fad. Back to the days when corduroy trousers and a simple knitted jumper were enough.
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