One thing was clear once again at the highlight of the fashion weeks: Paris is different. On the fashion revolutions and non-revolutions for the coming winter season.
The fashion weeks for autumn/winter 2016 are bound to go down in history. There have never been so many and such loud discussions about how collections are shown and later sold. Vetements is considered a creative and topically revolutionary label. Journalists like that kind of thing. After having been showcased in a gay club and a Chinese restaurant in previous seasons, the brand’s new range for A/W 2016 was presented in a church. Under the leadership of Russian-raised Demna Gvasalia, the collective’s theme this year was the US. There is high-end street style, inspired by snowboarders, surfers and biker gangs. The finest London fabrics for suits and slit skirts. Most obvious feature: shoulder pads, not like those from the ’80s that made your shoulders broader, but ones which make your shoulders look raised. A fashionable shrug of the shoulders, introversion, aggression. The pose that matches the label’s t-shirt slogan: “You fucking asshole”. The youth of today… Incidentally, Vetements has already declared that in future they will only show two collections, which will then arrive in the shops more quickly. So although the January shows are supposed to be for menswear the following autumn, Vetements will instead be presenting their summer collection, which will be in the shops for two months. While it was god and the world that fired the imaginations of some designers, Dries van Noten revealed a very specific source of inspiration: the love affair between the eccentric heiress and muse Marchesa Luisa Casati, who apparently kept leopards at home, and the poet Gabriele D’Annunzio, who was likewise hardly averse to a decadent lifestyle. Which means the new autumn collection was awash with furs, leopard prints, brocade, and string vests made of chains of pearls. As the studio managers of Christian Dior, Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux have the thankless task of presenting the next collection, even though a new designer still hasn’t been found after Raf Simons left. They could even go out in front of the guests after the show and enjoy a round of applause. The catwalk itself featured lots of coats. Novelty was provided in the form of numerous off-the-shoulder numbers, but other than that the pieces were mostly borrowings from the couture house’s DNA. What will the future bring for CD? TO MILAN FASHION WEEK