Milan: Urban Jungle Meets Folklore


Milan is currently the fashion metropolis: 70 collections are being sent down the catwalk for “Milano Moda Donna”. After New York and London, Milan is the third stopover on the marathon of big fashion weeks, with brands like Prada, Bottega Veneta, and Roberto Cavalli.
Prada Muccia Prada starts our journey into next summer with stripes. How many angles are there to observe a pattern and how does she have it appear on the catwalk in so many ingenious variations? The models wear it with gold lipstick and earrings the size of Christmas baubles. Blink and you’ll miss it: Prada then uses those stripes to create collages, elaborate combinations of patterns, colours and textures, worn under transparent jackets and coats. Roberto Cavalli Like coming back home. That’s how the new Creative Director Peter Dundas described the way he was feeling backstage. After Emanuel Ungaro and Emilio Pucci, the Norwegian has now returned to Roberto Cavalli and is subjecting the label to a serious rejuvenating treatment. Cropped and dyed biker jackets as pashminas for a girls’ night out, mullet skirts (short at the front, long at the back), bleached ’80s jeans, high waists with wide belts, but there was a noticeable lack of big cats on this catwalk. Yet Dundas still wants his debut to be seen as a homage to Roberto Cavalli. Bottega Veneta “Big Nature” is what it says on Tomas Maier’s info sheet about his new collection. He is thinking of nature, hiking, sport. Animal patterns and earthy colours are writ large at Bottega Veneta next summer: leopard meets sand, to be specific. But he has also patchworked patterns with materials to create dresses and elegant joggers. Worn with sandals. What woman doesn’t want a bit of comfort in her urban jungle? Emporio Armani “King Giorgio” has now been on his throne for four decades. But work obviously keeps this 81-year-old young. With Emporio Armani he sent a summer breeze onto the catwalk. The styles were intended to look as simple as tying a small scarf – which happened to be the key element of the collection, alongside wide-legged trousers, large costume jewellery, flat shoes and sack-like bags that will do nicely for your next sailing trip. The colours: cinnamon, slate, peach. Etro Sometimes even designers find it difficult to boil down exactly what it is they are trying to say with their collection. Veronica Etro did not have that problem this year. She was inspired just as much by botany as she was by romance. A bit gypsy, a bit Russian ballet, with Victorian sleeves, nomad and hippy styles. And all that with great passion for detail while still keeping the overall picture in her sights. European folklore is the name given to this marriage of styles. A wonderfully harmonious marriage with a gold-brown-red palette. The neck and waist ribbons will be the bestsellers of next season. What Milan’s talking about The show by Alessandro Michele for Gucci was probably the most eagerly anticipated. Though it happened to fall on an important Jewish holiday, which seemed to upset several US media outlets. Nevertheless, the new Creative Director still appears to be the fashionistas’ new darling of the moment. Everything that he “sent out” was met with favourable applause. He is known as the most daring designer because he is currently redefining the Gucci woman and is trying to erase for good any remaining memories of Tom Ford and Frida Giannini. For Moschino Jeremy Scott transformed the runway into a motorway, complete with street signs under the noses of the front row. The models wore ’50s styles and high-vis vests. The song of the show? Working at the Car Wash!
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