Looking Back at the Highlights of the Fashion Weeks
A perusal of our memory banks from this year’s fashion weeks. Here’s what we’ll always remember about the spring/summer 2016 fashion shows
Grandiosity: Each backdrop was more spectacular than the last. As ever, one of the highlights of the season was provided by Chanel in Paris. This time, Karl Lagerfeld even built an entire airport, called Cambon, in the Grand Palais. A couple of weeks beforehand in New York, Marc Jacobs had invited guests to the #Marcjacobspremiere in the legendary Ziegfeld Theater. Popcorn included. Dior had a mound of delphiniums spring from the middle of the Louvre’s Cour Carrée – a landscape of the future. Likewise, the journey at Louis Vuitton took us to the digital future. In the brand new Louis Vuitton Foundation, large projections drew the spectators into other spheres. Nicholas Ghesquiere’s inspiration came from Minecraft.
Text claw: Never have so many Tweets been sent or messages posted as this season. As ever, London tops the tables. The hashtag #LFW was used more than 350,000 times on Twitter. Dolce & Gabbana decided to capitalize on the trend by equipping their models with smartphones. Who then posted photos on Instagram live from the catwalk.
Fantasy worlds: Unsurprisingly, the designers kept the digital parallel universe in mind from the outset. What looks good on thousands of photos? A real flower meadow as a catwalk, for example, such as the one at Moncler Gamme Rouge by Giambattista Valli. Or a building site with signs and cordons at Moschino.
Surprise: Givenchy’s show took place in New York this year, not Paris. Everything was oversized: the catwalk, the front row, the number of people in the audience. After much sought-after tickets were awarded to 800 ordinary fashion fans online, lots was written about the democratization of fashion. Be that as it may, we’re convinced that next season’s fashion weeks will still be by invitation only.
The themes of next summer: Seafaring. Romance. Costumes. Transparency.
Darling of the fashion weeks: The collective Vetements is a relatively new participant in the fashion circus. Yet the applause was even louder for these seven former studio designers from Maison Margiela. The oversized tailoring! The sarcasm (DHL logo)! The location (a Chinese restaurant in Paris’s 11th arrondissement)! The excitement about this new force of fashion can hardly be contained. And at the end, one of them, Demna Gvasalia, was even made a new designer at Balenciaga.
Accessories: Next summer’s shoes are not heels, but several of them are platforms. And that’s not the only item of clothing that caters to women’s comfort, rather than squeezing them into a corset. The trousers are relatively wide. The lengths stretch almost to the floor. The tops are loose. Large earrings dangle (Prada), or a silver ear becomes jewellery itself (Louis Vuitton). Everyone will have a bag like a sailor’s kitbag swinging from their shoulder – and in their hair: a tiara (Saint Laurent, Miu Miu)!