You could argue that New York is the only non-European fashion week that people really pay attention to. This year, even a time-honoured Parisian couture house mingled with the who’s who of American brands and upgraded the fashion week abroad. Here’s our overview of the New York looks for summer 2016.
Givenchy Wow, that’s a name that’s never been on the list in New York. Creative Director Ricardo Tisci has established a flagship store on Madison Avenue and partied hard on the bank of the Hudson River. A mega show that set an example in democratizing fashion: although the labels now let “normal” people take part via a live stream, alongside its invited guests Givenchy also awarded 820 places to the New Yorkers who registered in time. But the show itself was an artistic warning, too, to be a bit more mindful, to find peace. Tisci’s show in collaboration with Marina Abramovich on Pier 26 lasted an hour. It was followed by a parade of opposites, as expressed by the Parisian fashion house: black and white, feminine and masculine, strength and fragility. Diane von Furstenberg She calls her collection Fortuna. The goddess of luck – barefoot with butterfly wings – featured on the first work of art that she ever bought. As a memento of that piece, the models are wearing fresh flowers in their hair, just as the designer herself once did. You’ll find fortune in this fashion if you like bright patchwork patterns or gold. Victoria Beckham This woman is always on the move. Los Angeles, New York, Miami, London and back again. With her laptop under her arm, her husband and children at her side. Perhaps that’s why she’s done her fellow women a favour and is no longer forcing us into tight suits, swapping them instead for wide 7/8 trousers and same-length skirts and dresses. Suddenly she has found more subtle ways to combine femininity and elegance. Tommy Hilfiger The runway leads to a beach bar. Island Girl is written on one model’s T-shirt. And that applies to the whole collection. A trip to the Caribbean. With Bob Marley, Hawaii shirts, straw hats, crochet bikinis and string vests. Alexander Wang The news came in July that his contract with the fashion house Balenciaga would not be extended. He will now invest his energy in his own label instead. News that should be shouted from the rooftops: for his brand’s tenth year he played a film about the past decade at the end of his show. In his eleventh season he remains true to himself: materials borrowed from sportswear transformed into urban chic. Jeremy Scott Square-eyed: binge watching is what Americans call (short-term) TV addiction. Jeremy Scott draws a portrait of people who sit in front of a TV for too long, or rather he caricatures them. The sequins are, of course, box-shaped, and the colours are always cheerful. Thom Browne The epitome of the wow effect. The backdrop, the make-up with its Japanese influence, and, of course, the fashion. Surreal prints, clashing colours, obsessive layering, plaits that defy gravity. Now that’s a standout collection. What else was on the catwalk? At Caroline Herrera you could sense her love for experimentation. Sophisticated graphic cut-outs to cement the figure and curiosity-creating materials almost beg for a “Don’t touch!” sign. Prabal Gurung harks back to his Nepalese roots. He has fallen for the yellow of the Holi festival. Joseph Altuzarra, too, explored a background – namely that of his father, who grew up in the Basque country. Derek Lam found his inspiration on Netflix: What happened, Miss Simone?, the documentary about Nina Simone’s life, is reflected in his new collection. Bridging the gap between laid-back and sexy. No bandage dress at Hervé Léger by Max Azria? No! The tight-fitting dresses that hug your body like a tightly wrapped ribbon are missing this season. Trouser suits have taken their place. Via Wes Gordon even Austria made it onto the New York runway. The shooting star in the US has brought out a range of sunglasses with Silhouette, which make his styles look much girlier this season. And Zac Posen screams “Buy me!” to the front row. He’d rather see his creations on the red carpet than on the catwalk. The big names fought the finale this year: Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren. CLICK HERE FOR MARC JACOBS & CO