Armani and the Viennese Sorcerer’s Apprentice


The digitalization of the world is making inroads into the fashion industry, too: models are booked because of their followers, applause is being replaced by smartphones being raised in the air to film the catwalks, and the winning shows were those that looked most impressive on Instagram. The staging has replaced the content. Is that true of Milan, too?
Giorgio Armani “I don’t like talking about myself,” old hand at fashion Giorgio Armani still maintains, even though he really does have something to say. At any rate, he did use the presence of the world’s journalists this fashion week to promote his new book. As the first autobiography of the 81-year-old, it is guaranteed to be a page-turner. He has already been in the business for 40 years. And he must have had to answer this question just as often, if not more: does he have a successor in mind? “My ego forces me to say that there will never be anyone else like Giorgio Armani.” And no, he can’t see anyone on the horizon. He was also asked whether that means he sees himself as a fashion revolutionary. In response, Armani named three of his inventions that have changed the rules of fashion: evening dresses with flat shoes, women in men’s clothes who still look feminine, and more comfortable men’s jackets. None other than star fashion journalist Suzy Menkes has now committed his life to paper. Giorgio Armani is its title and it was published by Rizzoli. In his summer collection he remains true to himself: elegant, unfazed by trends, he played with soft silhouettes, layering materials and shimmering transparency. Arthur Arbesser Arbesser is the shooting star of last year. He is from Vienna, more precisely from Hietzing. After working for big names in the industry for several years – including almost seven years for Giorgio Armani – he has now conquered the catwalk while surrounded by those veterans. With two premieres: his debut as Creative Director of the Italian label Iceberg and a show of his own brand – also based in Italy – which has a very youthful touch, with denim jackets made of terry cloth and knitwear with golden threads that are reminiscent of the wickerwork on a Thonet chair. Marni Play Lego with Marni. Consuelo Castiglioni’s spring starts energetically in bright Lego colours. Red, yellow, green, blue. In layers, as swinging, calf-length skirts and dresses, asymmetric with petal bottoms and splits. Combined with playful jewellery and a sigh of relief from everyone who likes to take everything but the kitchen sink with them wherever they go: the giant shopper is back. Kiton No catwalk show, instead a presentation of their new styles: blue and green stay on as the colours of the label next spring. The combination of sturdy corduroy with delicate silk, paired with sumptuous silk scarves and sling-back courts was simply beautiful. Like many other labels, Kiton pays tribute to layering.
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