After weeks of speculation about whether or not Hedi Slimane would stay at Saint Laurent, when his departure – though not the reasons why – was finally made public at the beginning of April the reaction was surprisingly low-key. Which is something that can’t be said for the fanfare surrounding Anthony Vaccarello, who Saint Laurent presented as their new creative director only three days later. Born in Belgium but with Italian roots, he was supported at the beginning of his career by Karl Lagerfeld, who hired him for his team at Fendi. And now he has climbed up from Versace’s supporting line Versus to the premier league. And there’s already a new question doing the rounds in the world of fashion: will Vaccarello return the label’s name to Yves Saint Laurent? 3 things you absolutely have to know about Anthony Vaccarello:
- Sexy, sexy and once again: sexy. While his avant-garde dresses with geometric cut-outs may expose a lot of skin or even a hip bone, he neutralizes that striking image with simple colours. His skirts have a reputation for actually being wide belts. Whether or not you agree with that statement, you can’t deny that they are tight. That’s beyond a shadow of a doubt. His pointed emphasis on feminine looks is a perfect continuation of Slimane’s legacy. By the way: “sexy” is not a word Vaccarello likes to hear.
- Strong, self-confident and urban. That’s how Vaccarello sees the women he designs for. His creative work is awash with numerous muses: Amber Valetta, Karlie Kloss, Lou Doillon. But “The woman I have in mind for my designs is always the same,” says the designer. We imagine he means Anja Rubik, his wife.
- Like Slimane before him, Vaccarello is also strongly influenced by music. Vaccarello considers himself part of the generation whose teenage years were spent watching MTV. While the visual element of ’90s music videos has undoubtedly had an impact on his aesthetics, he actually prefers to listen to old rock ‘n’ roll.