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New York Fashion Rebels

20160215

Frosty temperatures in New York. The perfect weather to prepare your fashion senses for winter 2016. The question on everybody’s lips at the Big Apple’s fashion week: whose runway show will be the greatest spectacle this year?


Presenting fashion is increasingly becoming a walk of F.A.M.E. Fashion, Art, Music and Entertainment merge in an almost symbiotic way, just as Andy Warhol imagined they could. Which meant that the presentation of the third collection by Kanye West for Yeezy (in collaboration with Adidas) at Madison Square Garden was quite the mega spectacle. Because he combined his fashion show with the premiere of his new album, “The Life of Pablo” – watched by 18,000 people in the sold-out stadium. “The royal family of reality TV”, the Kardashian clan, came en masse to support their son-in-law – wrapped in thick furs by Olivier Rousteing, Creative Director at Balmain.

West hired the Italian performance artist Vanessa Beecroft for his show – or more precisely to choreograph the models. They stood on the stage for two hours in ragged sportswear and acted out the Syrian/European refugee crisis. An inspiration that made West subject to some criticism. Which, as ever, was like water off a duck’s back to him. As for the collection itself, it can be summed up by the fashionistas’ favourite word of the moment: eclectic. In other words: West’s fashion is like West’s music – it samples other people’s work. He sampled his first and second collections in his third collection – there’s nothing new in his music or his fashion.

Choreographing fashion

Diane von Fürstenberg made her show an up-close-and-personal fashion experience, too. In the label’s own halls, below her own apartment, the most sought-after models like Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid were choreographed by Stephen Galloway to mimic a kind of house party – and the designer herself even joined in the dancing. The invited guests got closer to the clothes and the models than would have been possible on the catwalk, and could even feel like relatives while dancing along to disco hits like “We Are Family”. Wunderkind Alexander Wang, who recently left Balenciaga to promote his own label, presented his “pop collection” – veering between subtle and infantile with its many marihuana leaves and rebellious statements – in a church on Park Avenue. Victoria Beckham has evolved her signature corset dress into an intellectual statement, which her husband David excitedly shared on Instagram. Derek Lam sees us in bell-shaped mini-dresses, puff shoulders and fur-trimmed sleeves this autumn. Jason Wu is betting on men’s oversized coats and skirts with a feather trim.

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