The end of the New York Fashion Week was at least as emotional as the start and Givenchy’s show for the people: Marc Jacobs has proven that he is not only the greatest fashion talent of the past week, but is also the greatest showman.
Marc Jacobs A runway show? Boooriing! Marc Jacobs hired out the time-honoured Ziegfield Theater and presented a show that could be described as theatrical, to say the very least. For one night only, Marc Jacobs saw his name in the lights above the respected playhouse. His guests were greeted with popcorn and drinks; the models ran out, posed in front of the fans, then came back in and wove their way through the audience. Yes, Marc Jacobs knows that fashion lives on theatricality. And he is at least as good at theatricality as he is at designing. America’s red, white and blue colours dominate. America? For him, America is New York, Jacobs admitted backstage. And American is the theme of summer 2016, as far as he’s concerned. Ralph Lauren A salty breeze from the French coast wafted over the runway with the collection by Ralph Lauren. Sailing will be his major theme of summer 2016. But he doesn’t lean too far out of his boat. Neat and tidy yacht club styles tailored to his clientele, and every piece in the house colours: red, white and blue. Calvin Klein The label had been so clearly defined in recent years, but the turning point has now arrived. Oversized jackets, multiple layers: a look that resembles someone hurriedly putting on whatever they could find after oversleeping. Not far wrong: Francisco Costa calls the collection “morning after”. Even floral prints were spotted on the catwalk. This appears to be the start of a new, casual era for Calvin Klein. DKNY Battle of the sexes on Wall Street? Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne made their debut at DKNY. The two designers founded the label Public School in 2008, which reaped the CFDA Swarovski Award for Menswear in 2013. The serious nature of life after school has now caught up with them at the New York Fashion Week. For their show they chose a new mall under the World Trade Center, near the Financial District, where women conquered male domains in men’s clothes: pinstripes, grey flannel, white cotton shirts and boxer shorts. With their (at times clumsy) designs, are they trying to claim that women have yet to grow into their Wall Street roles? Or perhaps the designers – who have won awards for their menswear – simply need to get to grips with finding good ideas for womenswear… Proenza Schouler “We were looking at bananas,” Lazaro Hernandez explained backstage, “things that peel away from the body.” Yet Hernandez and John McCollough didn’t send their models onto the stage in banana yellow, but rather in black, white and red with lavish ruffles around bare shoulders, loose collars, button borders askew. Spectacularly decorated with feathers, pompoms, ribbons, ruffles and asymmetric cut-outs. Everything flowing, loose, airy. And the inspiration for this firework of ideas was a humble banana?! Michael Kors Ruches, flower appliqués, openwork: flower children are all the rage at Michael Kors, who was inspired by the artists Elsa Peretti and Georgia O’Keefe. The latter is famous for her floral pictures with an erotic undertone. Very grounded, but in no way down-to-earth, Michael Kors sees women this spring and summer as strong yet sensitive at the same time. Flower power, but ultra chic. Oscar de la Renta Peter Copper, who is following in the footsteps of Oscar de la Renta, is walking the master’s well-trodden path. The collection is a kind of ode to Spain of old, its colours and carnations – a traditional part of the bloody bullfights – with shades and materials that can be found on paintings by Velasquez and Goya. Whether it’s a cocktail dress or a business suit, Copper combines it with flat, laced espadrilles. Tory Burch Outfits for a 5-star resort. When Tory Burch travelled to Angkor Wat, she discovered for herself how beautiful patina can be. That inspired her to use oxidized jewellery, shimmering organza, woven tunics and fringes on everything. The collection is certainly more suited to a long sojourn on Capri than for a trip to the office. Vera Wang The divide between fantasy and reality is not clear-cut, according to Vera Wang. It is an idea that runs throughout the designer’s entire creative work. She is the punk ballerina of fashion and one of the greatest bridal fashion designers there is, although she herself generally wears black. For the coming spring, she blurs the line between the schoolgirl and teacher look. The fact that she is toying with certain fantasies in the process is a conscious part of the game she’s playing. Diesel Black Gold Andreas Melbostad’s vision for the spring was women in button-down dresses. Somewhat old hat, but Melbostad has tried to reinterpret the style. He has in fact reinterpreted it so much that it is (almost) unrecognizable: he has cut the blue-and-white-striped button-down shirts into countless pieces and then sewn them together again. Yep, that looks right.