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The Grand Finale in Paris

06.10.2016

Dior © Adrien Dirand

Despite their unspectacular start in New York, the way the fashion weeks drew to a close in Milan and Paris was as surprising, humorous and colourful as we had hoped. In addition to transparency, what particularly caught our eye was the pyjama style (Etro, Emporio Armani) and the new, thoroughly provocative bourgeoisie (e.g. at Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, Balenciaga). Several debuts (at Saint Laurent, Dior and Lanvin) were awaited with bated breath, the topic “see now, buy now”, which had previously caused quite a kerfuffle in the industry, suddenly fell by the wayside. It might have had something to do with the collections, which so many people swore heralded a new timelessness. So: see now, buy later, wear forever? 

Valentino
There was half a debut at Valentino. The world of fashion had wondered whether Pierpaolo Piccioli would still be able to create exciting collections after Maria Grazia Chiuri’s move to Dior. It was definitely not as dramatic as the music that the label used in their fashion week Instagram movie: that was one thing everyone could agree on. Nevertheless, Piccioli isn’t at all bad on his own.

Dior
Although Chiuri opened her show at the Musée Rodin with Ruth Bell, the model who became famous for her ultra-short hair, and put her in white knickerbockers and a fencing jacket, she nevertheless relied on what she’s good at. Which meant that the collection revealed more and more romantic, delicate elements, in her preferred colour: white, much like Rodin’s sculptures, we might add. Combined with comfortable shoes and a return to labelling: you could read Christian Dior on straps and shirt hems. And some T-shirts turned political: “We all should be feminists,” Chiuri announced.

Emporio Armani
After an 18-year hiatus, Giorgio Armani once again presented his collection in Paris. For the launch of his new store in the city. At least in his mind, he appears to have travelled to India for his designs, bringing elephant embroideries, printed edging and soft silk fabrics back with him. And pyjama trousers. He predicts we’ll have a comfy summer in the city next year.

 

Louis Vuitton
This time around, Nicholas Ghesquière didn’t present his visions for next summer in the glass palace of the Fondation Louis Vuitton, but in the label’s new home: the Place Vendôme flagship store, which will open in 2017. The collection is a reorientation for the designer, away from the future heroines of recent seasons – though we’d had some warning in the sporty theme of the cruise collection in Rio de Janeiro. With daring cut-outs in blazers – under the armpits – and flowing dresses, he has proclaimed a new bourgeoisie; indeed, you could call it hot bourgeoisie.

Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld transformed the Grand Palais – built for the world’s fair in 1900 – into a vast data processing centre. It was as if you’d woken up to find yourself in the belly of Facebook. The show was opened by Daria Werbowy and Cara Delevingne – or so rumour has it. The duo wore traditional black and white tweed suits, but were made unrecognizable by the robot heads that Lagerfeld had put on them. The women were probably on their way to the future. And then came the transformation of the classic Chanel jacket. An injection of youth in loud Facebook blue and neon colours, suitable for a trip down the social media data highway, complete with baseball cap and a ponytail worn sideways. Don’t forget to chew gum!

Miu Miu
To the beach! Miuccia Prada swapped her previous collection’s sailor hats for bathing caps like our grandmothers used to wear. Previously the preserve of gentlemen of independent means, spending the entire day in your dressing gown is now street style. And why not saunter through the city streets in a tailored bath robe? Combined with a floral housecoat – the kind that hasn’t been worn for a good few generations – and a bathing cap. Pop on some lippy and voilà! This is the kind of light-hearted summer we’ve been longing for!

 

Dior

Dior

Dior

Paris Fashon Week SS17

Chanel

Chanel

Chanel

Paris Fashon Week SS17

Chanel

Chanel

Chanel

Paris Fashon Week SS17

Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani

Paris Fashon Week SS17

Valentino

Valentino

Valentino

Paris Fashon Week SS17

Elie Saab

Elie Saab

Elie Saab

Paris Fashon Week SS17

#parisfashionweek

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