Perfume and fashion: a combination that only joined forces in the 20th century. Although the first name that springs to mind might well be Coco Chanel, it was in fact the French couturier Paul Poiret who released the first designer perfume in 1911. He wanted to give women the opportunity to enjoy global fragrances who could not afford one of his couture dresses. The concept quickly caught on. Houses like Christian Dior, Saint Laurent and – of course – Coco Chanel recognized the profitability of this line of commerce. From the mid-1980s, the idea of reading one’s name on a bottle of perfume suddenly seemed to appeal to every designer around. Calvin Klein started commercialization in 1985 with “Obsession”. Today, while having their own perfume is still the jewel in the crown of every fashion house, most customers no longer tie themselves down to a single signature scent. Depending on their mood, outfit and the time of year, they will alternate between four or five different scents. Warm, heavy and spicy notes are all the rage this autumn and winter. “Noir”, “absolue” and “extreme” are the adjectives associated with several new, intensively aromatic creations this year. Yet we can also expect floral and fruity fragrances from designers this September: Miu Miu Head designer Miuccia Prada left us waiting for a long time, but Miu Miu has now finally released its first fragrance. Perfumer Daniela Andrier chose a surprising combination of floral and earthy tones. She sets lily of the valley, jasmine and rose against a backdrop of akigala wood, a patchouli extract, which lends the understated, floral glamour a mysterious aura. Chanel Models in tutus bowling with an XXL flacon? It must be the commercial for the new fragrance creation by Chanel. Called Chance Eau Vive, Olivier Polge (who followed his father Jacques into the role of Head of Parfums Chanel in 2015) is the name behind it. He designed an energizing combination of grapefruit and blood orange, without forgetting the main ingredients of the Chance range: jasmine and musk, which make the scent not only floral and playful but also alluring. Giorgio Armani Armani Eau Pour Homme – that was Armani’s cult scent from 1984. In 2013 the fashion corporation launched a new edition of the fragrance. Since then, versions like Eau de Nuit and Eau d’Aromes have formed the house’s Eau Pour Homme line. Eau de Cèdre is the name of the current edition – dedicated to the valuable cedar. Yves Saint Laurent The same overtone, the same flacon. One year after launching Black Opium Eau de Parfum, YSL has now released the lighter Black Opium Eau de Toilette. Highly aromatic coffee beans are centre stage here, too – newly combined with fresh jasmine tea, sweet orange blossom, cassis and a luscious, succulent note of pear. Tom Ford With Venetian Bergamot in the Private Blend collection, Tom Ford has created an unconventional interpretation of the ingredient, which is valued so highly by perfumers for its freshness and elegance. The sun-drenched citrus fruit is transferred from the south of Italy to the city of palazzi and canals, which is known for its trade with intensively fragrant flowers, fine woods and warm spices. Marc Jacobs With his new fragrance Decadence, the designer invites you to spoil yourself more. His inspiration came from his own handbags. The Eau de Parfum was developed in collaboration with the perfumer Annie Buzantian and exudes the scent of Italian plum, saffron and iris. Shanghai Tang The Asian luxury label seduces us onto a voyage to discover the Chinese dynasties. Master perfumer and scent artist Carlos Benaim was inspired by the décor, the intensive colours, the flora and the culture of the Silk Road when creating the collection of five fragrances for women and three for men. He uses 100 per cent natural raw materials. Issey Miyake With its light-dark contrast, Nuit d’Issey Parfum is an olfactory reinterpretation of the Eau de Toilette. The fragrance seeks to awaken men’s spirit of adventure with its notes of pink pepper and leather.