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Fashion Week: Transparency in Paris

30.09.2016

Maison Margiela © catwalkpix

The highlight of the fashion weeks: Paris! The transparency demanded by all did at least materialize – and systematically, too – on the catwalk. Transparency is probably THE trend of summer 2017. And you’re allowed to look. Oh, the suspense of awaiting the debuts by Bouchra Jarrar, who has succeeded Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, and Anthony Vaccarello, who has two legacies to do justice to: Yves Saint Laurent’s and Hedi Slimane’s, whose footsteps are no less daunting to follow in.

Saint Laurent: Conspicuously radiant, the YSL logo dangled from a crane above Paris, adding a new star to the city’s night sky. Vaccarello’s collection falls into line with the DNA of the label, which is by now as black as night. Even the ’80s revival heralded by Slimane was something that Vaccarello decided to run with. Given the cut-outs that the designer is famous for, his style is not actually that far removed from his predecessor’s. The Saint Laurent community had eagerly congregated in the fashion capital – with Pierre Bergé leading the way, who spent 50 years at Yves Saint Laurent’s side as his life partner, and those women who were born to wear the label’s fashion (– or perhaps it’s the other way around?): Jane Birkin, Lou Doillon and Charlotte Gainsbourg.

Lanvin: While it’s a matter of principle for Alber Elbaz to launch his shows in the evening to a disco soundtrack, Bouchra Jarrar rescheduled the event to the light of day – but her collection is at least as contrastive as his were. She opened with an ivory white, extra-long jacket, over a satin dress. Followed by pyjama-like combinations of flowing silk fabrics. Long chains, loose, floral dresses, cuts and forms that pick up where the late ’20s and ’30s left off. The collection may not be avant-garde, but it certainly is in line with the brand’s tradition, which dates back to 1889. Presented in the ostentatious halls of the Hôtel de Ville.

 

Maison Margiela: John Galliano, on the other hand, is the epitome of avant-garde and eccentricity. Poetic, supernatural, unearthly. He is sending us to space for our summer holiday. Equipped with spacy helmets, glasses, headsets and earpieces, kitted out with a rucksack complete with camping mat and handbag dangling from the back. What Galliano delivers are artworks, transformations and no-holds-barred risk. It was worth it. If anyone knows how to break the rules of fashion, then it’s him.

Dries van Noten: Say it with flowers. The poet and sentimental one among the designers is the artists’ favourite. On this occasion he trimmed his catwalk with floral bouquets frozen in ice by Makoto Azuma. Which picked up on the floral details in a collection filled with loose, flowing cuts. Bohemians will love it.

Rihanna Fenty x Puma: If Rihanna has her way, street style à la Marie Antoinette on her way to play tennis will be all the rage next summer. Pearl fishers will have their work cut out, because without them nothing in this collection would be possible. The latest accessory: a piercing stuck right in the middle of your lower lip – with a pearl finish, you understand.

Lanvin © catwalkpix

Lanvin © catwalkpix

Lanvin

Paris Fashion Week SS17

Maison Margiela © catwalkpix

Maison Margiela © catwalkpix

Maison Margiela

Paris Fashion Week SS17

Yves Saint Laurent © catwalkpix

Yves Saint Laurent © catwalkpix

Yves Saint Laurent

Paris Fashion Week SS17

#parisfashionweek

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❤️ photo @saskialawaks

A post shared by Anthony Vaccarello (@anthonyvaccarello) on

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@ysl by @anthonyvaccarello #Proud #Passion #bigday

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Dries Van Noten women's Spring Summer 2017 collection. #driesvannoten #dvn #azumamakoto #pfw #fashion #showrooms

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Almost showtime - Click biolink for live streaming #lanvinfemme #lanvinss17 #lanvin #bouchrajarrar

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@lanvinofficial #BouchraJarrar channels #1930s Madame #Lanvin #paris @voguemagazine

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#Rihanna 🎤 per #FentyxPuma a Parigi! #MCLikes #PFW #MarieClairePFW #SS17 #RhiannaPuma #Puma @FentyxPuma @badgalriri @tidal @puma

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